BILLECART-SALMON Brut 'Le Sous Bois' NV Bottle

Description

This unique cuvée, entirely vinified in oak, artfully blends the three classic Champagne grape varieties, renewing the ancestral spirit and expertise of traditional Champagne-making. It features a radiant yellow crystalline appearance with golden glints and a persistent bead of fine bubbles. The enticing nose presents rich aromas of dried fruits, fresh citrus, and white fruits, complemented by buttery notes. On the palate, the creamy texture is enhanced by a bracing vivacity, offering layers of grilled brioche and toffee flavors, showcasing the distinguished power and maturity typical of exceptional Champagne. With a character that beautifully pairs with seafood and poultry, this remarkable wine promises to impress. Rated 95 points by Vinous and 94 by James Suckling, it exemplifies elegance and finesse.

*****

VINOUS 95 points
The NV Extra Brut Sous Bois (base 2018) is a major step up from the 2017. Then again, this vintage was much more favorable. Aromatic, bright and sculpted, the 2018 is so complete. Silky contours and well-judged oak give the 2018 a great deal of finesse to compliment dried orchard fruit and floral nuances. In this release, the Sous Bois is 63% 2018 and 37% reserve wines. - Antonio Galloni

JAMES SUCKLING 94 points
Baked apples, peaches, cloves, honeycomb and freshly baked croissants on the nose. It’s creamy and lightly honeyed on the palate, with richness yet brightness and layered, very fine bubbles. Silky finish. 43% grand cru chardonnay, 29% meunier, 28% premier and grand cru pinot noir, based on the 2017 vintage, with a third of reserve wines from a perpetual reserve dating back to 2006. Vinified in barrels. Five years on the lees. 5 g/L dosage. Drink now. - Claire Nesbitt

JANCIS ROBINSON 17+ points
A baby brother to Clos St-Hilaire, 100% barrel-fermented. One-third of each variety from selected parcels – older, lower-yielding parcels tend to be chosen for the Sous Bois. 52% grand cru grapes, 16% premier cru (across the whole portfolio; their Meunier isn’t grand or premier cru). One-third reserve wine. Malo blocked. Long lees-ageing (6–7 years). Slightly oxidative style – the most oxidative they make.
A richer mouthfeel as well as real bite. A savoury and yeasty note on the nose – almost slight Marmite (yeast extract). The oak is very well integrated and just frames the wine – the subtle note of spice comes in on the finish – slightly cedary note? (AC)

DECANTER 92 points
Tasted by: Tom Hewson at London, 28 Apr 2023) Part of Oak in Champagne: A new chapter & 20 wines tasted
Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028
Fermented and aged over winter in second-hand small barrels and barrels seasoned in-house (although future editions will include wine from larger casks). Rich and inviting apricot and kernel notes, brown butter and nutty honey. Some soft strawberry and an appetising, tangy apple length, highly expressive but really rather polished and rounded out. One third each Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay.

THE WINE ADVOCATE 91 points
Reviewed by: Kristaps Karklins
Drink Date: 2025 - 2032
Heavily based on the 2017 vintage (with 34% reserve wines dating back to 2006), fermented at low temperatures and entirely vinified in oak, the NV Le Sous Bois blends fruit from vast areas of Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs (notably Oger, Chouilly and Cramant). Disgorged with a dosage of five grams per liter in spring 2023, after five years of lees aging, it reveals aromas of green apple, vanilla, peach and toasted nuts, mingling with hints of caramelized sugar. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, precise and fine-boned, featuring a youthful fruit core supported by vibrant acidity, with subtle bitter phenolics asserting themselves on the finish. Given the challenges of the growing season, it incorporates a higher proportion of Chardonnay than usual.