CHAMPAGNE SALON Brut Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvee S' Le Mesnil - Cote de Blancs 1997 Bottle

Description

The 1997 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut showcases the depth and refinement that embody this iconic Champagne, earning exceptional accolades. James Suckling gave it 98 points, highlighting intense aromas of flint, dried honeysuckle, jasmine, and chalk, with a harmonious balance and a lingering finish. Decanter awarded it 97 points, praising its rich citrus fruit notes of pomelo and lemon, alongside floral scents and a crystalline texture that conveys purity and elegance. Wine & Spirit and Wine Enthusiast both rated it 96 points, emphasizing the wine's chalky power, minerality, and elegant structure, with fresh acidity complementing rich lemon curd and baked apple flavors. This vintage, while more approachable, promises continued complexity and an impressive evolution, worthy of attention.

*****

JAMES SUCKLING 98 points
The intensity of flint, dried honeysuckle, jasmine and chalk comes through so clearly now. Full-bodied yet balanced and pure, with a sense of perfection and such harmony and balance. Goes on for minutes. You want to drink it now, but it will go on forever.

DECANTER 97 points
Tasted by: Yohan Castaing (at Mesnil-sur-Oger, 22 Jan 2020) Part of Champagne Salon vertical: A retrospective
Drinking Window: 2020 - 2030
Mild temperatures and extreme cold alternated throughout both winter and spring. A hot and dry summer led to a harvest that commenced on 22 September. Citrussy fruit, including pomelo and lemon, as well as spices and floral scents, suffuse the nose. Rich and dense mouthfeel on the attack giving way to a precise, crystalline texture. Purity, elegance and freshness characterise this magnificent Champagne now at full maturity.

JANCIS ROBINSON 18 points
Very expressive with attractive and not excessive chewiness. Herbs and flowers and almost like the biodynamic wild-flower effect. Great spread of aromas and quite a tight texture. Real concentration. Easy to love. Still some chew. (JR)

THE WINE ADVOCATE 95 points
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Drink Date: 2020 - 2033
A wine that just seems to go from strength to strength is Salon's 1997 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut. The Maison kept back large stocks that they have gradually been disgorging over the last half-dozen years—it's still a commercial release and well worth seeking out. From a bottle disgorged in 2020, the wine wafts from the glass with scents of honeycomb, white flowers and orange rind, complemented by hints of burnt marmalade and exotic fruit. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's notably taut and chiseled for the vintage, with racy acids and a beautifully expressive mid-palate. This is really beginning to drink with real grace, and if it doesn't hit quite the same heights as the best bottles of 1996 Salon, I have found the 1997 notably more consistent. I suppose it was picked a touch early, given the botrytis pressure in 1997, but time is being very kind to this wine.

VINOUS 95 points

One of the surprises in this vertical, the 1997 Salon is super-polished, delicate and refined. The 1997 offers lovely detail and nuance throughout. Hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers and white pepper add an element of brightness that complements the wine's natural richness. Although 1997 doesn't belong to the group of elite vintages at Salon, it does come close to that level. Perhaps even more importantly, the 1997 is aging gracefully and should continue to drink nicely for a number of years. - Antonio Galloni

WINE & SPIRIT 96 points
The pure essence of limestone, this vintage is maturing into the grandeur of a great Le Mesnil Champagne while remaining fresh and lively. It offers rich lemon curd and baked apple flavors, chalky power and gravitas without weight. The flavors remain impacted below the limestone earthiness, the wine's structure and balance suited to extended aging.

WINE ENTHUSIAST 96 points
The fabled Salon's latest release is much riper and softer than the great steely 1996 vintage. This suggests it is likely to be ready to drink soon. In the meantime, the acidity is supremely fresh, with grapefruit edges and green apple flavors. And then there is minerality and a tight, structured aftertaste as a reminder that this great Champagne is always going to be more than its fruit.