FELSINA BERARDENGA Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Chianti Rufina, Tuscany 2017 HALF

Description

IN BRIEF
Fèlsina Berardenga Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2017 is a deeply evocative Vin Santo marrying dried fruit sweetness with crystalline acidity and savoury complexity; deep amber with topaz highlights, it offers dried apricot, fig conserve and orange marmalade, then candied citrus, toasted almond and honeyed quince, while airing reveals caramelised apple, baked pear, cinnamon, clove, beeswax and tobacco. Richly textured yet finely balanced, the palate shows raisin, almond praline and toasted hazelnut framed by bright citrus lift and a saline seam that keeps the finish lively; made from dried Malvasia and Trebbiano and aged in small oak casks, serve slightly chilled. Drink 2026 to 2045. Critics: Vinous 96 "Gorgeous"; James Suckling 95 "Silky depth"; Decanter 94 "Luscious impact."

ABOUT THIS WINE
Felsina Berardenga Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2017 is a deeply evocative expression of Tuscan passito tradition, marrying concentrated dried fruit sweetness with crystalline acidity and an attractive savoury complexity. The colour is a deep amber with topaz highlights and a clear bright rim. The bouquet is immediately generous with dried apricot, orange marmalade and fig conserve at the forefront, followed by candied citrus peel, honeyed quince and toasted almond. With airing the wine reveals intense aromatic layers of caramelised apple, baked pear and a warm spice of cinnamon and clove, while subtle notes of beeswax, tobacco and old cedar add depth and nuance.

On the palate the wine is richly textured yet finely balanced, the sweetness tempered by a clean, almost citrus like acidity that keeps the wine poised and refreshing. Primary flavours of dried apricot, raisin and marmalade evolve into notes of almond praline, toasted hazelnut and a delicate saline mineral thread that gives the finish lift and persistence. There is a sophisticated oxidative character from extended ageing in small oak casks that contributes a slight dried fruit savouriness and a warm toffee edge without overwhelming the varietal purity or structural clarity.

Made from carefully selected Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes dried and vinified in the classic Vin Santo manner, the 2017 vintage benefited from good ripening and careful cellar management producing a wine of depth and harmony. Serve slightly chilled in small glasses to concentrate the aromas. Drink 2026 to 2045, peaking 2028 to 2038.

Pair with traditional cantucci and Vin Santo for a classic match, or try with blue cheese such as Stilton, almond tart, crème brûlée, panettone or foie gras to contrast the wine’s sweetness with savoury or bitter elements. This 2017 is a stylish and ageworthy Vin Santo that combines generosity with an elegant structural backbone.

VINOUS 96 points
Drinking window: 2025 - 2035
The 2017 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is a gorgeous, exotic wine. Hazelnut, orange peel, spice and light caramel inflections all grace this elegant, floral Vin Santo. Bright acids perk up the finish nicely. Shortening the drying period slightly to compensate for grapes that were already high in sugar worked so well. This is classic as classic gets when it comes to Vin Santo. I would love to have a few bottles in the cellar. Residual sugar is 270 grams per litre.
Antonio Galloni, July 2025

JAMES SUCKLING 95 points
Fully rancio and citrusy, with candied orange zest, nuts and dried figs. This old-fashioned style shines on the palate, with elegance, depth, a silky texture, weight, balanced sweetness and a super-tense finish. Lacks impressive length, but is an outstanding vin santo. Drink or hold.
Aldo Fiordelli, Senior Editor

DECANTER 94 points
Tasted by: Richard Baudains (at Tuscany, 01 Jul 2025) Part of 'I tasted over 100 Vin Santo wines, here are the ones to buy'
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2037
Ripe and raisiny on the nose, with a slightly stemmy quality. Intense vibrant impact on the palate and a luscious follow-through with stratified depth of fruit flavours and a succulent sweet-and-sharp contrast in the peach and lime on the long finish. All the right things in the right places.

THE WINE ADVOCATE 93 points
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
Drink Date: 2024 - 2040
Available in a 375-milliliter bottle, the Fèlsina 2017 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico shows a glossy amber appearance with rich aromas of dark honey, maple syrup and brandied fruit. Despite the intensity of the bouquet, the wine is actually quite streamlined and immediate in terms of mouthfeel.
Fèlsina is presenting wine

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ABOUT FELSINA BERARDENGA
Felsina is a historic estate in the heart of Chianti Classico, located in the commune of Castelina in Chianti, and recognised for wines that combine Sangiovese intensity with regional authenticity and ageing potential. The property belongs to the Cinelli Colombini family, whose stewardship across generations has emphasised respect for tradition, careful vineyard renewal and investment in terroir research. Family ownership has allowed a long term approach to viticulture that balances tradition with selective technical innovation.

Vineyards occupy a variety of exposures and soil types typical of Chianti Classico, including clay and limestone rich parcels that contribute structure and mineral lift. Plantings are led by Sangiovese, complemented by small percentages of native and international varieties used sparingly in some cuvees. Vine age varies across plots, with a mix of older, low yielding vines and younger plantings introduced through renewal programmes. Vineyard practice focuses on canopy management, yield control and hand harvesting to ensure physiological ripeness and aromatic lift. Increasing attention to soil health, cover cropping and sustainable practices supports vine longevity and expression of site.

Winemaking is overseen by the estate technical team and a head winemaker who manages parcel by parcel vinification to preserve site nuance. The cellar philosophy favours small batch fermentations with careful temperature control, gentle extraction and strict sorting to maintain Sangiovese purity and fine tannic structure. Maturation strategies are chosen to respect fruit clarity while adding texture and complexity, typically employing French and Slavonian oak of varying age according to cuvee needs. Regular blending trials and rigorous tasting guide final selections for the estate bottlings and reserve wines.

The range spans Chianti Classico estate wines through to Riserva and single vineyard bottlings that demonstrate depth and ageing capacity. Typical tasting notes include red cherry, wild berry, floral perfume, spice and a mineral thread framed by fine grain tannins. Through sustained family stewardship, meticulous vineyard attention and careful cellar craft, Felsina remains a benchmark for expressive Sangiovese from Chianti Classico.