Description
THE WINE ADVOCATE The Wine Advocate RP (95-96)
Reviewed by: William Kelley
A classic blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Angélus reflects this estate's continuing evolution with regard to ripeness, extraction and élevage choices, offering up attractive aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with hints of mint, potpourri, rose petals, vine smoke and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and supple, with a velvety attack that segues into a core of pure, pillowy fruit framed by supple, powdery tannins, it's cool and harmonious, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. This is a terrific effort that foregrounds the vintage and the terroir at their best.
Since taking the helm at Angélus, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal and her team, inspired by the terroir transparency of the wines of the 1950s, have been boldly evolving toward less impactful winemaking. What does that mean in practice? Cooler macerations, élevage that now incorporates foudres for the grand vin and tanks for Tempo, No. 3 and Carillon, reducing the impact of new barriques without the loss in precision that often comes from repeatedly reused barrels—along with, I'm sure, a host of other smaller changes that cumulatively mean that Angélus today is a very different beast from the rich, toasty wine of the 1990s and early 2000s.
The 2023 vintage has delivered wines with quite low pHs, with the team opting to harvest comparatively early to preserve freshness. Long cold macerations were followed by cool fermentations, with a maximum of 22 degrees Celsius, and the wines were barreled down clean and cool. Technical director Benjamin Laforet compares the vinifications in 2023 to a long-exposure photograph and compares the resulting wines with the estate's 2001s.
JAMES SUCKLING ***** Score: 97-98 Points
9 Apr, 2024 – The transparency of fruit and the finesse is really something here. There’s depth and beauty to the pristine, fresh fruit. Full-bodied and muscular with wonderful tannins that provide tension and form. Subtle and weightless, this is a thought-provoking young wine. 60% merlot and 40% cabernet franc.
JANCIS ROBINSON 17.5 points
Drink: 2032 - 2048
60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. 40 hl/ha. Cask sample.
Deep purple hue. Complex nose with floral and dark-fruit notes. Rich, smooth and dense on the palate, the tannins fine but firm and tightly wound. Exudes a certain power and austerity at the moment but clearly built to age. (JL)
DECANTER 97 points
Tasted by: Georgina Hindle (at Château Trotte Vieille, 12 Apr 2023)
Drinking Window: 2030 - 2050
Gorgeous nose, floral and scented with roses and violets, expressive strawberries and raspberries and some herbal elements. Full and filling, but soft and smooth, almost crushed velvet in texture. It’s not so tense and straight but has a solid backbone of freshness and plush fruit but very cool. It’s more on the structured side than overt acidity, serious but still with crunchy blueberries, chalky blackcurrant, lots of graphite and minerality on the finish. Less fruit forward than some but layered with complexity - a subtle opulence. Fleshy ripe tannins with mouthwatering acidity adding a serious touch. It’s missing that Angelus hug on the mid palate, but I like it a lot and you can’t fault the refinement and precision on show. It’s got body, length, tannins, crunch, freshness, and a vein of minerality underpinning the expression. 3.65pH. Harvest September 14 to October 1.
VINOUS 94-96 points
The 2023 Angélus is elegant and polished right out of the gate. Floral top notes and bright acids bring out the more refined side of Angélus. The 2023 shows how much Angélus has evolved in recent years. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, mint and rose petal lend notable verve. The blend is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. About half of the Franc is being raised in foudre. All the elements are so well integrated for a young wine. It is one of the best recent vintages I have tasted. - Antonio Galloni. Tasting date: April 2024
“Two thousand twenty-three was the warmest year ever in France, but not in Bordeaux,” Hubert de Boüard stated emphatically. "We had mildew pressure in the spring and a cold summer until the end of August.” All that may be true, but what stands out most at Angélus these days is a greater focus on precision in the winemaking and farming.
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