DOMAINE DE LA VOUGERAIE Nuits-St-Georges 'Clos de Thorey' 1er Cru 2023 CASE x 6 Bottles ORG/BIO- PRE-RELEASE

Description

Domaine de la Vougeraie, based in Premeaux just south of Nuits St Georges, was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset of the Boisset group decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of his various negociant companies acquired over the years. The name comes from the significant holdings – and indeed Jean-Claude Boisset’s home – in the village of Vougeot. The winery is located however in the old Claudine Deschamps (Madame Jean-Claude Boisset) cellars in Prémeaux. The domaine was put together from the various vineyard holdings which had accrued through the Boisset acquisitions of Burgundian houses over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which were farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly was subsequently moving to a softer approach by 2004.

With nearly 40 hectares of vineyard and over 30 different appellations, including six grand crus (Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Clos Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin, Mazoyères, Corton Clos du Roi and Corton Charlemagne), this is one of Burgundy’s leading domaines.

No expense has been spared in production terms. The premier and grand cru vineyards are all farmed biodynamically with carefully limited yields. The cellar has been equipped with a battery of new or renovated wooden fermentation vats, a state of the art sorting table and a new model of the old fashioned vertical press which is thought to be the best option for red wines. The wines were made by Pascal Marchand of Comte Armand in Pommard, from 1999 to 2005 and subsequently by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. The grapes are sorted on one of the longest tables de tri I have seen, before being given a cool pre-maceration. During fermentation Pierre punches down only once a day, much less than Pascal used to. The temperature is maintained at 26º-28ºC/79-81ºF after fermentation to polymerise the tannins and fix the colour. Starting in 2008 he has begun to experiment with some whole bunch fermentation, though only for a proportion of a given cuvée.

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The vineyards, solidly seated on middle Jurassic sedimentary formations, are cut in two by the town, where the Meuzin stream flows out of the Combe de la Serrée. To the north lies Vosne-Romanée, to the south, Premeaux-Prissey. Being exposed to a variety of directions, the characteristic tastes vary, with more rustic wines to the south of the village. Nuits wines are only at their best after several years, and are ideal for patient collectors.

This is a 3ha Monopole, very chalky, south facing site planted in 1975. 50% whole bunches were sued in 2023 vintage. Aged for 16 months in Citeaux and Tronçais oak barrels (20% new).

Jasper Morris 91-93 points: "20% whole bunch vinification. A bright mid ruby purple. The stems add an additional floral lift to the fruit, all nicely judged and fine boned. Builds beautifully with an additional burst of fully ripe fruit alongside a structure which keeps the wine fresh. Really very persistent. Excellent. " Drink from 2029-2035. Tasted Nov 2024.