BIBI GRAETZ 'Testamatta' Rosso - Toscana IGT 2022 Bottle

Description

James Suckling: 98

Decanter: 97
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2042 - The production of both Testamatta and Colore was cut by two-thirds in 2022, partly because Bibi Graetz didn't want to use his south-facing vineyards in such a hot year. ‘I think there is more power, more energy,’ he says. Certainly, Testamatta is singing, and has closed the gap to Colore in 2022. It displays dusty, earthy notes, creamy dark cherry, green olive and spice on a vertical frame with stark salinity. It's precise and energetic, poised and balletic, with a beautiful vibrancy of tangy raspberry, cherry, wild herbs and a touch of plum. - James Button

Wine Advocate (Monica Larner): 95
Drink Date: 2024 - 2040 - Made with fruit from all north-facing vineyard sites (mostly in Olmo with a little bit from Lamole), the Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta is engineered to showcase the power of Sangiovese. Indeed, many parcels were recently removed from the blend in order to focus on fruit concentration and elegance. This was a hot growing season, but Bibi says that 2021 was also very warm (with more violent heat spikes during the summer). He lost a small percentage (about 7%) of fruit in 2022 and claims to have had an abundance of fruit in the challenging 2023 vintage. This wine is packed with dense berry fruit, blueberry, spice and soft earth. Bright acidic freshness adds backbone to Sangiovese.

The Drinks Business (Colin Hay): 96
Jane Anson: 95

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Born in 1973 in Florence, Italy, Bibi Graetz comes from a family of artists, which profoundly influenced his winemaking philosophy. He studied art and sculpting before eventually turning his passion to winemaking, which he considers an art form in itself.

In the late 1990s, Bibi Graetz started his journey in winemaking by acquiring vineyards in the hills of Fiesole, near Florence, Tuscany. These vineyards, some more than 200 years old, became the foundation for his winery, Azienda Agricola Testamatta, which translates to "Crazy Head Farm."

One of Graetz’s fundamental principles is to work with traditional Tuscan grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo, but with a contemporary and artistic approach. He believes in organic and biodynamic farming practices, respecting the land’s natural balance and allowing the terroir to express itself in his wines.

Bibi Graetz’s winemaking style is characterised by small production, meticulous attention to detail, and an experimental spirit. He embraces minimal intervention during winemaking, preferring to let the grapes speak for themselves. The result is wines with a distinct sense of place, displaying the unique flavours and characteristics of the Tuscan terroir.

His wines have gained widespread recognition and critical acclaim for their exceptional quality and distinctive character. Some of his most famous wines include “Colore,” a complex and age-worthy red blend, and the “Testamatta” series, which includes “Testamatta” and “Testamatta Rosso,” showcasing his commitment to crafting exceptional Sangiovese wines.