CHATEAU DUHART-MILON ROTHSCHILD 4eme Grand Cru Classe Pauillac, 2023 Bottle

THE WINE ADVOCATE - 92-94 Points

"A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon (picked late, between September 25 and October 3) and 20% Merlot, the 2023 Duhart-Milon has turned out beautifully, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries and dark berries mingled with hints of mint, cedar and spice box. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an ample core of cool but ripe fruit, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish.

As I've written before, Duhart-Milon's vineyards are later-maturing than Lafite's, and the soils are less inherently balanced: The clay-rich parts of the vineyard are richer in clay than at Lafite, and the gravel-rich parts of the vineyard are richer in gravel, whereas Lafite's predominantly gravel soils sometimes contain more than 10% clay. That explains why Duhart-Milon historically often produced leaner wines than Lafite, with less mid-palate amplitude; but a warming climate and more attention to viticultural detail (sowing cover crops, for example, in clay-rich parts of the vineyard) are mitigating these disadvantages, and recent vintages have seen this estate attain new qualitative heights. As at all the Domaines Barons de Rothschild properties, winemaking and élevage are very classical, with regular rackings, and the majority of the barriques are derived from the in-house cooperage (emphasizing lightly toasted Allier and Nevers oak seasoned for 24 months); and as at Lafite, Cabernet is very much in the ascendant here.

The 2023 Duhart-Milon is a compelling Pauillac with impressive depth and finesse. On the nose, it offers a refined blend of cassis, cherries, dark berries, and hints of mint, cedar, and spice, creating a layered aromatic profile. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, with fleshy, concentrated fruit and a silky texture provided by polished tannins. The wine's cool yet ripe core of fruit is balanced by lively acidity, while subtle herbal and mineral notes add complexity. Its elegant structure and harmonious profile suggest a long aging potential, promising continued development from 2030 to 2045. With a combination of classic Bordeaux finesse and recent improvements in vineyard care, this wine is poised to age gracefully while offering immediate enjoyment. It's an exquisite reflection of the vintage’s nuanced power." Reviewed by William Kelly

DECANTER - 95 Points

"Some herbal bramble notes on the nose, soft dark chocolate, blackcurrant, flowers, liquorice and dark chocolate. Not huge aromatics, quite quiet. Round and smooth, a lovely juiciness but with weight and balance, gorgeous texture - a little salty and stony, a tiny bit grippy but gorgeous overall expansion in the mouth giving flavour without any overt heaviness. Lovely softness but this still has power and energy. Lifted and intense but so finessed. It has broad shoulders with graphite and wet stone touches alongside bramble fruit and great, almost piercing acidity. Lovely. 60% grand vin production. 3.8pH. 15% press. New cellar as of 2020." Reviewed by Georgina Hindle

Drinking Window: 2030-2045

JANCIS ROBINSON - 16.5 Points

"Cabernet-cassis nose with a touch of vanilla oak. Less concentration than 2022 but the palate long, fresh and tapered. Structured with 15% press wine in the blend." (JL)