LES FORTS DE LATOUR 2nd wine of Ch. Latour, Pauillac 2004 Bottle

Description

The 2004 Forts de Latour impresses with its moderate concentration and charming profile. Decanter awarded it 94 points, highlighting its fresh blackcurrant fruit and well-integrated notes of cedar and Havana cigar, complemented by a surprisingly long finish. The higher proportion of Merlot compared to the grand vin enhances its approachable nature at this age. Vinous rated it 91 points, describing a deep red wine with aromas of blueberry, plum, and tobacco, offering a creamy texture and rich, plush character. This wine showcases lively freshness and balance, making it appealing for both immediate enjoyment and further aging. With a drinking window from 2024 to 2045, the 2004 Forts de Latour promises ongoing pleasure for years to come.

*****

DECANTER 94 points
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW
(at Atlanta, 22 Mar 2024)
Part of Bordeaux 2004: A 20-year retrospective
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2045
The Forts de Latour was charming from the outset with its moderate concentration of blackcurrant fruit and its well-integrated evolution and notes of cedar and Havana cigar. A lively freshness and enough substance to carry it to a surprisingly long finish complement the first impression. The higher proportion of Merlot than in the grand vin (almost three times more) and lower percentage of new oak ageing seem to have made the wine more approachable at this age. Popular with the tasters, this wine was ranked first in its flight.

VINOUS 91 points
From: 2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)
Deep red. Aromas of blueberry, plum, leather, tobacco and mocha. Sweet, plummy and pliant, with a creamy, fine-grained texture for the vintage. Very plush wine, richer than the 2006 and at least as long. Finishes with big but ripe tannins. - By Stephen Tanzer on May 2007

Perfectionist estate manager Frederic Engerer is probably harder on his own wines than critics are, and he was still agonizing over the young 2006 Latour in early April. Engerer described the harvest as tough (the estate's prime acreage surrounding the winery, called l'Enclos, was affected by some rot for the first time since 1993), as a full degree of potential alcohol was lost after September 10. The wine, says Engerer, stands out today more for its structure than its flesh. Engerer told me that the merlot lacked concentration and grip in 2006, despite the fact that potential alcohol levels had reached as high as 14.5% before the rains came, and was mostly declassified into Les Forts de Latour. "In 2005 and 2004, Latour and Les Forts de Latour are like brothers," said Engerer, "but in 2006 it's more like the big brother and the little sister." Engerer normally uses a good bit of Latour press wine in Les Forts de Latour "to gain length" but in 2006, he told me, it would have dominated the fruit of Les Forts. As to Latour, the index of total polyphenols (indice de polyphenols totaux), or IPT, was a very high 76 (compared to 72 in 2005), and no saignee was done. The grand vin includes a high 86% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot and 1% cabernet franc. Engerer believes the wine will smooth out somewhat in barrel "but it won't go from black to white." He believes the wine lacks the creamy texture of the 2005 "and even the 2004" but is buoyed by its whiplash of a finish. As in recent years, I rate Latour among the superstars of the vintage, although this vintage was hard to read in the early going.

WINE ENTHUSIAST 91 points
Latour's second wine is, as so often, on a level with many classed growths. In 2004, it is also a very faithful reflection of the vintage: fresh, lively and vital, with acidity and vibrant blackberry fruits very much up front. If not big, it is deliciously fresh and will develop well over five years. — Roger Voss

JANCIS ROBINSON 17.5 points
Quite a star, this wine! Perhaps the surprise of the lot. Very dark crimson and looks a lot younger than the 2005. Very winning and glossy. Dense and savoury unlike 2005's ripeness and sweetness. Youthful and zesty. Beautiful balance. If pushed you could serve this now with a steak. (JR)

THE WINE ADVOCATE 90 points
The estate’s second wine continues to go from strength to strength. The 2004 Forts de Latour (includes 75% Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals a deep ruby/purple hue, classic evolved cedary, lead pencil, and cassis characteristics, medium body, beautiful sweetness of fruit, and a more forward, evolved character than its big sibling. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years."