CASTELLO DELLA SALA 'Cervaro della Sala' Marchesi Antinori - Umbria IGT 2022 Bottle

Description

IN BRIEF
Castello della Sala Cervaro della Sala 2023 is a bright, nervy white that balances freshness with textural richness. Pale straw with a luminous core, it opens with green apple, lime zest and white peach, edged by citrus blossom and a flinty floral lift. Gentle lees ageing supplies toasted almond, pastry crust and a hint of acacia honey while a faint saline thread underscores site. Medium plus with a silky yet taut texture, lemon, pear and white peach are framed by crisp acidity; Grechetto adds phenolic texture and Chardonnay brings clarity and subtle vanilla from oak. Approachable now and will reward short term cellaring. Drink 2026 to 2032. Critics: Wine Advocate 97 "Italian masterpiece"; James Suckling 97 "Silky with a salted citrus finish"; Vinous 95 "Pure elegance."

ABOUT THIS WINE
Castello della Sala Cervaro della Sala Marchesi Antinori 2022 is a refined and expressive white blend that marries the freshness of Chardonnay with the textural lift of Grechetto, reflecting the estate's long established coastal influence and meticulous élevage. The colour is pale gold with a clear core and a luminous sheen. The nose opens with white peach, ripe pear and green apple, joined by citrus blossom and a gently honeyed floral perfume. With airing the bouquet broadens to reveal toasted almond, pastry crust and a light lemon curd note from careful barrel ageing, while a faint saline mineral thread hints at the cool site and limestone influenced soils.

On the palate the wine is medium plus in weight with a silky texture and a well balanced structure. Primary stone fruit of white peach and pear is enlivened by zesty lemon and a crisp green apple acidity that gives energy and precision. The Grechetto component contributes a fine phenolic texture and subtle herbaceous lift, while the Chardonnay brings roundness and a creamy oak derived note of vanilla and biscuit that integrates without dominating. Lees contact and measured time in French oak add complexity in the form of toasted almond, brioche and a touch of honeyed richness, counterpointed by a clean saline finish that keeps the wine focused.

The 2022 vintage provided generous fruit ripeness tempered by good acidity, resulting in a Cervaro that is both generous and precise. Approachable now, the 2022 will also develop further integration with short term cellaring. Drink 2026 to 2032, peaking 2027 to 2029. Serve well chilled with lobster thermidor, seared scallops, grilled sea bass with lemon and herbs, creamy risotto with wild mushrooms, roast chicken with thyme and lemon, or aged goat cheeses to highlight the wine’s balance of fruit richness, subtle oak nuance and saline minerality.

THE WINE ADVOCATE 94 points
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
Drink Date: 2024 - 2035
This is Marchesi Antinori's top white wine, and it comes from the region of Umbria. The Castello della Sala 2022 Cervaro della Sala is based on Chardonnay and has a small part of the local grape Grechetto in the blend. The nose opens to a reductive note of flint or matchstick, but it lifts quickly to reveal soft orchard fruit, white peach and minty apple. There are delicately applied toasted notes with a hint of pecan or macadamia nut. To finish, you also get salty mineral notes that underline the extremely vertical or lifted personality of the bouquet. Renzo Cotarella tells me that tweaks to winemaking in recent years have attempted "to slim down the wine and not make it any bigger." This was a hot vintage, but Cervaro della Sala remains true to its leaner and meaner blueprint. However, given its accessible personality, we could expect a shorter drinking window for the 2022s.

JAMES SUCKLING 98 points
Attractive nose of ripe mangoes, pineapple and grilled lemons with some toasty, nutty notes and hints of smoky minerality. Cardamom and pie crust, too. It’s full-bodied, nervy and juicy, with bright acidity and savory nuances. It’s layered and long and it builds up on the palate, with vibrant, spicy notes of candied ginger, dried lemons and bitter citrus peel. Truly the Montrachet of Italy. Drink or hold.

VINOUS 94 points
Drinking window: 2025 - 2034
The 2022 Cervaro della Sala opens with a seductive bouquet as vanilla bean and crushed almond evolve into a blend of yellow apples, chamomile, mint and cardamom. It floods the palate with silken waves of ripe pit fruits and spices. Tactile mineral tones build tension over a core of brisk acidity. Balanced and refined, the 2022 cleans up beautifully structured and long with a citrusy concentration and salty flourish that lingers long. This is a stunning Cervaro della Sala built for the cellar despite its deeply alluring state.
Eric Guido. Tasting date: August 2024

DECANTER 93 points
Tasted by: James Button
Drinking Window: 2024 - 2037
While Antinori's Tignanello broke the mould for Tuscan reds, the family's Cervaro della Sala was among the first Italian whites to undergo malolactic fermentation and ageing in barriques when the 1985 vintage was released. A blend of Chardonnay and a small portion of unoaked Grechetto, it has a rich and bold scent of tropical fruits, spice, wood and white peach. The spicy, toasty, nutty wood is upfront in the mouth, carrying ripe flavours of apricot and mango, and nuances of banana, white peach and apple. Nutty and sapid, and with gum-tingling acidity, this is a wine which will benefit from further cellaring to allow the oak to harmonise.

WINE ENTHUSIAST 93 points
Rich waves of vanilla-dipped golden apples and toasted hazelnuts swirl with buttery brioche intensity. The wine coats every corner with generous oak, revealing layers of ripe yellow pear, crushed almonds, and warm spice, all supported by a Mediterranean-meets-Burgundy richness and creamy texture. — Jeff Porter

-----

ABOUT CASTELLO DELLA SALA
Castello della Sala is an historic estate in Umbria owned by the Marchesi Antinori family, who acquired the property in the mid 20th century as part of a long term commitment to central Italian viticulture. The property centres on a medieval castle set within rolling hills and well tended parkland, where vineyards occupy calcareous and loamy soils that lend structure and mineral lift to the wines. Antinori ownership has brought sustained investment in vineyard renewal, research and cellar facilities while respecting the estate character and local heritage.

Vineyards at Castello della Sala are planted to a mix of indigenous and international varieties, with Pinot Grigio, Grechetto, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc among the white varieties, and Sangiovese and selected international red varieties in smaller plots. Site selection favours gentle slopes and well drained soils, and vine age varies across parcels according to replanting programmes. Vineyard practice emphasises canopy management, yield control and selective hand harvesting to achieve balanced ripeness and aromatic clarity. Sustainable soil care and water management are integral to maintaining long term vigour and to expressing site specificity.

Winemaking is overseen by the Antinori technical organisation and carried out by an experienced cellar team based at the estate. The approach combines careful parcel by parcel vinification with modern temperature control and attentive oak regimes when required. White wines often receive gentle handling to preserve primary aromatics and fresh acidity, while selected barrel ageing is employed to add texture and complexity to premium cuvees. Red vinification focuses on measured extraction and maturation choices that enhance structure without obscuring varietal character.

The estate produces a range of wines from accessible everyday bottles to reserve level cuvees that demonstrate depth and cellaring potential. Typical tasting notes include vibrant stone fruit and citrus for whites, and ripe red fruit, spice and mineral nuance for richer bottlings. Castello della Sala exemplifies Antinori stewardship in Umbria, combining tradition, technical rigour and a clear sense of place.