CHATEAU LE DEVAY `En Pente Douce` Roussanne/Viognier 2022 Bottle 13.5%abv (los)

Description

The Producer
Described as ‘the most coveted domaine in the Northern Rhône’ by le Figaro (the oldest newspaper in France), Château le Devay was established eight years ago. Just a few kilometres north of Côte-Rôtie, this 18th-century Chateau was purchased by Jean-Charles and Florence Fournet back in 2005.

A radiologist and speech therapist by trade, the Fournets hadn’t initially considered growing vines at the estate. This changed when their winemaker friend, Pierre-Jean Villa, advised that the estate’s schist soils were ideally suited to Rhône varieties. After consulting soil microbiologists, 5.5 hectares were set aside for planting in 2014. The Fournets sought advice from other winemaker friends throughout the planting process, including Christine Vernay, Yves Gangloff and Thierry Germain. This guidance, combined with the estate's secluded location, convinced the duo to work as naturally as possible.

Planted 340 and 400 metres above sea level, the vineyard is set within a natural amphitheatre of brittle, schist soils bordered by woodland, making it an ideal location to practise biodynamic viticulture and agroforestry. Here, the Fournets grafted massal selections of Roussanne, Viognier and Syrah onto a diverse selection of rootstocks. They also planted local and ancient species of fruit trees, as well as 4,920 feet of bee-friendly hedges to encourage pollinating insects and biodiversity. Vineyard work is carried out by hand and includes labour-intensive ancestral pruning techniques. This allows better sap circulation and ensures long-term vine health while reducing disease risk. From 2019 they have worked closely with like-minded growers in Crozes-Hermitages and Condrieu, making the resulting wines with the same attention to detail as their estate bottlings. Their estate wines are labelled IGP Collines Rhodaniennnes.

Château le Devay’s winemaking philosophy seeks to convey the tension and salinity that their schist soils provide. In 2018, Florence completed her winemaking qualifications at Dijon University and now works with the estate’s winemaker Margaux Vigy, who previously worked at Domaine Georges Vernay in Condrieu. Harvest is undertaken by hand and fruit is subjected to a rigorous sorting process, in both the vineyard and winery. Ageing occurs predominantly in two- to three-year-old barrels, or demi-muids, to ensure new oak does not overpower their wines. The only new oak used is in the form of Stockinger barrels, which the team believe to have a more delicate oak influence.

The ‘Entre les Murs’ Viognier is fermented in a combination of stainless steel and one to three-year-old demi-muids, creating an expression which has a distinct mineral tension. The ‘En Pente Douce’ blends 85% Viognier and 15% Roussanne fermented in stainless steel, amphora, old oak and demi-muids. It offers a saline, fresh expression defined by delicate white florals and stone fruits. The ‘Sous les Etoiles’ Roussanne is beautifully textured, brimming with vibrant citrus and complemented by a precise, mineral finish. The ‘Cote Levant’ Syrah hails from the highest part of the vineyard, with an elevation of 400 metres. 30% of the grapes are whole bunch foot-trodden before fermentation. Aged for 18 months in and one to three-year-old demi-muids, it is lifted and expressive with notes of vibrant black fruit and fragrant herbs.

Vineyards
The Château Le Devay estate vineyard is located between 340 and 400 metres above sea level, and set within a natural amphitheatre bordered by woodland, making it an ideal location to practise biodynamic viticulture and agroforestry. Local and ancient species of fruit trees also surround the estate, to encourage pollinating insects and biodiversity. Fruit for this Roussanne/Viognier blend is sourced from vines planted at 370 metres above sea level on mica schist soils with a surface layer of clay, resulting in depth and freshness.

Vintage
A warm and dry spring resulted in successful flowering, with no incidence of frost, by contrast to the previous vintage. Summer was very warm and dry, and resulted in smaller berries and low disease pressure. Water stress was much less severe than in the Southern Rhône, but had some impact on younger vines. Harvest began on 9th September and finished on 22nd September. The resulting wines have excellent depth, power and texture, while alcohols are still balanced.

Vinification
The grapes were harvested by hand, followed by a second selection at the winery. Whole bunches underwent a long and gentle pressing. Fermentation took place in a combination of stainless steel, amphora, old oak and demi-muids, to retain the pure, primary aromatics while enhancing the wine’s rich mouthfeel. Malolactic fermentation also occurred.

Tasting Notes
`En Pente Douce` opens with aromas of apricot, white flowers and red apple. The palate marries rich texture with vibrant acidity and fruit intensity, leading to a refreshing finish.