LECLERC BRIANT Vertus 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs 'Les Monts Ferres' 2018 Bottle - BIO/ORG/VGN

Description

Champagne Leclerc Briant focuses on organic and biodynamic viticulture, working in harmony with nature to produce some of the region’s most exciting wines.

Lucien Leclerc founded the estate in 1872 in the village of Cumières. In the mid-20th century, in the hands of Lucien’s great-grandson, Bertrand Leclerc, and his wife, Jacqueline Briant, the operation was moved to the beating heart of Champagne, Epernay. Here it also took a new name – Leclerc Briant. Around the same time, the house started practising biodynamic viticulture (becoming one of the first in the region to do so), eventually earning certification in the 1980s.

Since 2012, Chef du Cave Hervé Justin, formerly of Champagne Duval-Leroy, has refined the house style here. Working with organic and biodynamic fruit, he also practises biodynamic principles in the winery. Leclerc Briant has taken on new vineyards, renovated its facilities, and has a renewed, uncompromising focus on quality.

The traditional sparkling wine method here is low dosage, vineyard-specific, and extremely interesting. The popular Abyss cuvée is aged underwater. As of the 2012 vintage, Hervé Jestin and the team are responsible for making the wine at Château d’Avize, which they bottle under the Leclerc Briant label and sell through La Place de Bordeaux.

THE WINE ADVOCATE 94 points/100
Reviewed by: Yohan Castaing
Drink Date: 2023 - 2030
The 2018 Les Monts Ferrés Blanc de Blancs derives from vines planted in the eponymous parcel in the 1er cru village of Vertus. It reveals a delicate, fine bouquet with aromas of fresh bread, acacia, spring flowers and ripe orchard fruits. Medium-bodied and perfectly balanced, it’s enveloping and structured with both racy and bright acidity. This is a tension-filled, ethereal Champagne with a dosage of 1.4 grams per liter.

VINOUS 93 points/100
Drinking window: 2023 - 2035
The 2018 Brut Zéro Les Monts Ferrés is from a single vineyard in Vertus, the base wines were aged in barriques sourced from Sauternes and Pessac-Léognan. The oak, combined with the ripeness of the 2018 vintage, makes for a fragrant, rounded nose of creamy, supple vanilla and lovely hints of undergrowth. Super-fine mousse on the palate plays around slight nuttiness and delineates a fine spine of freshness, yet this is not as brisk as you would expect from a low-dosaged blanc de blancs from Vertus, very rounded, generous and mild. Dosage is 1.4gr/L. Disgorged: April, 2023. - Anne Krebiehl MW
Antonio Galloni. Tasting date: November 2023

*****

Introducing Les Mont Ferrés 2018. Although Leclerc Briant have been farming this biodynamic vineyard for years, it wasn’t until the quality of the 2018 vintage which compelled Hervé, to vinify and bottle separately. Les Mont Ferrés is a Premier Cru single vineyard in Vertus, the most southernmost village of the Cotes des Blancs. This 100% Chardonnay is from a beautiful, mid slope vineyards which sits directly on the village boundary with neighbouring Grand Cru Les Mesnil-sur-Ogers. This soil here is typical thoroughbred chalk, but unusually layered with a high proportion of lead. This rare terroir gives wines of racing chalk tension, paired with a rich, ferrous minerality. A character propelled by the sunny fruit generosity of the vintage.

The wine is entirely in oak, second fill barrique (from Ch. Haut Brion & d’Yquem) for 10 months prior to secondary fermentation, followed by 3 years of lees. The nose is open, inviting, and sensual with wafts of saffron, vanilla, wild sage and white peach. The palate is extraordinarily, vinous and rich. Yellow fruits, golden almond croissant met with soft edges of spice, and a frame of fine oak. There are savoury details which melt into a rare combination of taught chalk salinity and a deeper, earthy minerality. The finish is joyful, sun kissed, spiced but serious, firmly mineral. All supported by white gold foam, a champagne of the highest class. A new star is born. Bottled July 2019, disgorged May 2023, dosage 1.4grams. Drink now to 2035.