DOMAINE COMTE ARMAND Volnay - Cote de Beaune 2023 Bottle

Description

Owned by the family of the Comte Armand since 1825, Clos des Epeneaux is among Pommard’s most revered vineyards. Post-Phylloxera, it wasn’t replanted until 1930. Further vineyards were acquired in 1994: village-level and Premier Cru sites in Auxey-Duresses along with sites in Volnay (village and Frémiets). The modern era effectively began with Pascal Marchand, who was succeeded as winemaker by Benjamin Leroux. When Ben left in 2014 to focus on his own business, Paul Zinetti took the reins.

Paul likes the vintage, but it was not all plain sailing. “I’ve never rejected so much fruit in my life,” he explained. The crop was generous, but the bunches were tightly packed and the fruit in the middle was often rotten; a careful selection was required to keep only the healthiest grapes. The size of the crop also posed a logistical problem in the estate’s cramped cellars. The Volnay and Frémiets, first to be picked, were vinified with 30% whole bunches. But everything else was entirely de-stemmed as there was simply not enough space in the vats. Even so, Paul is happy with the wines, highlighting their depth. This year sees the introduction of a handful of négociant wines, sourced and made by Raphaële Tinoco – a talented member of the estate team who Paul hopes will take over from him in the future. Based on this showing, she is one to watch.

Jasper Morris 88-91 points "From Grands Champs and Les Famines. Dark centre to the colour and some firm structure in this Volnay. Full plum fruit, with good energy and a sense of calm completeness to finish. " Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2024.