CASTELLO DELLA SALA 'Cervaro della Sala' Marchesi Antinori - Umbria IGT 2023 Bottle

Description

Cervaro della Sala is widely considered one of the finest white wines in Italy and the 2023 vintage from the Antinori family is as impressive as ever. Grown in the cool high altitude vineyards of Umbria, it is a sophisticated blend of Chardonnay and a touch of the local Grechetto grape. This wine is fermented and aged in small French oak barrels which gives it a luxurious and creamy texture. On the nose you will find a beautiful mix of citrus peel and tropical fruits along with subtle notes of melted butter and toasted hazelnut. While it is undeniably rich, there is a brilliant streak of acidity that keeps it feeling fresh and balanced. It is a world class white that elegantly bridges the gap between old world tradition and modern style.

THE WINE ADVOCATE 97 points
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
Drink Date: 2026 - 2040
The most impressive aspect of the Castello della Sala ethos is its ability to reinvent itself. This latest edition of Umbria's headline white is a true delight. Renzo Cotarella and his team have created an Italian masterpiece that is reminiscent of the great whites of Burgundy. The 2023 Cervaro della Sala opens to an elegantly reductive note of flint or crushed granite before sliding gracefully into silky fruit sensations, breakfast pastry and crème fraîche. It offers carefully balanced richness and textural importance. Winemaking is moving away from 500-liter barrels to embrace larger foudre. No bâtonnage is implemented. The wine is mostly Chardonnay, with a smaller part (between 5% and 10%, depending on the vintage) of Grechetto that has been further reduced in order to avoid any rustic tones from the Italian grape. Part of the Chardonnay does malolactic fermentation, but the Grechetto does not. This gives energy and verve to the final results. Castello della Sala has recently planted more Chardonnay (now totaling 80 hectares) for flexibility in choosing the best clusters. Throughout its many reinventions, this is the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted.

JAMES SUCKLING 97 points
Classic Burgundian style. On the nose white chocolate, pink grapefruit, lemon zest and white flowers. Full-bodied, it shows weight, vibrancy and tension, with a silky texture and a salted citrus finish. Amazing balance in this vintage, with lemon peel bitterness in the aftertaste adding an extra dimension. Drink or hold.
Aldo Fiordelli, Senior Editor

VINOUS 95 points
Drinking window: 2026 - 2032
Youthfully coy, the 2023 Cervaro della Sala blows off an air smoky reduction to reveal depths of crushed yellow apples, sesame seeds, pine shavings and nuances of vanilla custard. This is pure elegance in the glass, as silken textures envelop the palate. A bump of residual acidity maintains energy throughout, even as the 2023 tapers off tannic and potent, with a resonance of mineral-infused apricots. This is a suburb rendition of Cervaro della Sala.
Eric Guido. Tasting date: April 2025

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ABOUT CASTELLO DELLA SALA
Castello della Sala is an historic estate in Umbria owned by the Marchesi Antinori family, who acquired the property in the mid 20th century as part of a long term commitment to central Italian viticulture. The property centres on a medieval castle set within rolling hills and well tended parkland, where vineyards occupy calcareous and loamy soils that lend structure and mineral lift to the wines. Antinori ownership has brought sustained investment in vineyard renewal, research and cellar facilities while respecting the estate character and local heritage.

Vineyards at Castello della Sala are planted to a mix of indigenous and international varieties, with Pinot Grigio, Grechetto, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc among the white varieties, and Sangiovese and selected international red varieties in smaller plots. Site selection favours gentle slopes and well drained soils, and vine age varies across parcels according to replanting programmes. Vineyard practice emphasises canopy management, yield control and selective hand harvesting to achieve balanced ripeness and aromatic clarity. Sustainable soil care and water management are integral to maintaining long term vigour and to expressing site specificity.

Winemaking is overseen by the Antinori technical organisation and carried out by an experienced cellar team based at the estate. The approach combines careful parcel by parcel vinification with modern temperature control and attentive oak regimes when required. White wines often receive gentle handling to preserve primary aromatics and fresh acidity, while selected barrel ageing is employed to add texture and complexity to premium cuvees. Red vinification focuses on measured extraction and maturation choices that enhance structure without obscuring varietal character.

The estate produces a range of wines from accessible everyday bottles to reserve level cuvees that demonstrate depth and cellaring potential. Typical tasting notes include vibrant stone fruit and citrus for whites, and ripe red fruit, spice and mineral nuance for richer bottlings. Castello della Sala exemplifies Antinori stewardship in Umbria, combining tradition, technical rigour and a clear sense of place.